Home Again!

Saturday I woke up on the train a year older and doing what I love to do: travel. And oh what an amazing journey it has been!! Something was missing, though, and I was reminded that there is something I love even more than traveling and that is being with my family, especially on my birthday. So, despite the very special card from my travelling buddy, lots of birthday texts and phone calls, being in one of my favorite cities and staying with two kind and welcoming people, the day was never quite right. Fun and interesting, but not quite right. Luckily, I would be seeing my family very soon!

Beauties

Bug-like!

We arrived in DC mid-afternoon – only an hour and a half late – and were met by Beth’s friend, Jennifer, and her son, Joey, who shared their home with us last night. They have been living outside of DC for about 6 months, so were primed for showing us around since they have recently done many of the museums and tours themselves and are still enthusiastic about the city’s offerings.  Jennifer suggested the United States Botanical Gardens as a place to start, which was full of  - shock of shocks – beautiful flowers and unusual plants. The hundreds of varieties of orchids were surprising to me: most were exotically beautiful but some looked more like insects! Being barely able to keep a philodendron alive, and having murdered an orchid or two in the past, I was taken by these delicate, thriving beauties.

Since it had been more than four hours since Beth and I had last eaten, our stomachs were complaining. One thing for sure about this trip is that we haven’t gone hungry; in fact we’ve rarely gone more than 3 hours without food.  Joey had the answer for where to eat: “We, The Pizza.” This eatery is so much more than a pizza parlor. The owner is a chef who believes in all the things I believe in when it comes to food: local, sustainably raised and good! So, we had delicious pizza with farm fresh vegetables, local beer, and [YES!] free-range chicken wings. For dessert we had their farm fresh and homemade gelato that was as good as my gold standard for gelato: Paciugo, near my dad’s home in St. Petersburg, FL. My kinda birthday dinner!

After dinner we drove past the Lincoln Memorial where a school group was reciting Martin Luther King’s Dream Speech one sentence per student. I can’t think of a better way to get middle school students to grasp that speech. From there we drove out to Jennifer and Joey’s home and enjoyed their company along with a rock-and-roll free night.

Sunday, the train from DC to Rocky Mount (Raleigh for Beth) left and, thankfully, arrived on time. At this point it was simply a means of transportation, no longer the romantic and exciting train travel of my imagination.  Tony welcomed me at the station and all of the kids & grandkids (except Dalen and Scotty) were waiting with a birthday dinner surprise at the beach home when we pulled in. Sigh of happiness – it’s so nice to be home!! 

Home!

I do like train travel, though, and expect it won’t be long until I ride the rails again. Until that time, my blog along with my suitcase will be set aside. Thank you for joining me along the way – Westward Ho!

Chicago Revisited

The trip from Minot was late getting started and slow to progress. We ended up 4 hours late into Chicago – my first real experience with Amtrak’s reputation for being late. I have learned a few things about Amtrak that are important to know if you find yourself frustrated. First is that they don’t own the tracks on which they travel, the freight companies do. So, if a freight train needs the track for shuffling cars or just needs to use the track for hauling freight, Amtrak trains must wait. As we did, for an hour and a half, in Minot.

Amtrak is also highly regulated for safety reasons, like the airlines. After several severe wrecks of steam engines going upwards of 130 mph, the federal government set a maximum speed limit of around 75 or 80 mph. If there’s bad weather or lots of water on or near the tracks the speed limit is lowered to 30 mph. As a result when we woke up the next morning after leaving Minot, we were 4 hours behind instead of 1½ hours, and stayed between 3 and 4 hours behind for the rest of the trip. In addition – and again for our safety and their health – Amtrak personnel must have at least 8 hours break between shifts. So if the train on which they arrive is late, they can’t board the next train for 8 hours, regardless of its scheduled departure time. And so we passengers must wait, happy or not.

The Gingerbread Shoppe in action

Once we reached Chicago, Ken and Jean were kind enough to offer up their hospitality to us again. It was wonderful to be with them for a second visit and to introduce them to Beth. The Gingerbread Shoppe had opened its doors earlier this week, so we got to see it up and running. They had completely redone the floors and painted the walls, giving the shop a more welcoming, up-to-date feel. Jean has stocked it with a wide variety of interesting crafts from around the country and potential customers were beginning to find their way into the store.

Chicago from the Willis Tower Skydeck

Looking down!

Since Beth had not been to Chicago before, we went back into the city on Thursday to see the sights. Ken, Candice and Ryan served as our tour guides – what a great group and fun adventure! Ryan’s dad works as a conductor for Metra, so we took advantage of his offer of free tickets to ride the Metra commuter train from Joliet to LaSalle Street Station.  First on the agenda was the Willis Tower Skydeck, a must-do that I didn’t do on my last visit. A tad skeptical of paying $17 to ride an elevator to the top for a great view, I had no regrets. The weather was perfect so the views were long range and amazing. As you might imagine, stepping out into the Plexiglas view boxes to look down at the street 103 floors below was literally breathtaking and quite thrilling!

Willis Tower through the "L"

From Willis Tower we revisited Millennium Park and “The Bean” and then squeezed the 5 of us into a cab to go to Fadó’s Irish Pub for dinner. I was very excited to see that they carried Kilkenny beer (though Ken wasn’t too sure about it…), which was a favorite of Tony’s and mine when we visited Ireland 10 years ago. Thinking that it was a beer that couldn’t travel far, we had given up the hunt for it several years ago and here it was! For once my memory served me well – it was just as good as I expected.

Our lovely borrowed shoes

After Fadó’s, we had some time to kill before the next Metra to Joliet, so Ken suggested the Redhead Piano Bar that was just around the corner. What a find!  I haven’t enjoyed myself that much at a bar in a long time. From the very first minute, when they required us to borrow nicer shoes than the “gym” shoes we were wearing, to the last martini, we laughed and sang and enjoyed each other and the place immensely. After postponing the train twice, we finally resigned ourselves to undertaking the 2-hour journey back to Plainfield and the headache we were bound to face the next morning.

Friday morning, though still recovering from Thursday’s entertainment, we left Ken with Jean to continue setting up the shop and headed back into Chicago for more sightseeing and the eventual goal of catching the train to DC. This time we mostly walked, covering Chicago’s upscale outdoor mall known as the Magnificent Mile, a quick trip to Navy Pier and a stroll along Lake Michigan. We indulged in Chicago-style deep-dish pizza at Gino’s East (without the usual beer for some reason), which left us overstuffed to the point where we gave the last piece to the staff for their “salvage” table. It was different and good, but I believe I prefer New York style pizza.

A "small" Chicago Style Pizza

Satisfied that we had sampled wisely from downtown Chicago’s best offerings, we boarded the Capitol Limited to Washington, DC, the final stop of our train adventure before heading home.

[A note to Tony and my family: I have missed you every day of this trip, but especially today on my birthday! I look forward to celebrating it with you in person when I get back. *BIG HUGS*]

Minot, North Dakota

Why not Minot?  We asked ourselves this question when we chose Minot as a place to spend a day in North Dakota. Then it became our “mantra” when people asked us why we chose Minot. “Why not Minot?” Come to find out, the folks in charge of publicity for Minot also thought it was a catchy phrase – and we didn’t even have to tell them! T-shirts, magnets, postcards and other souvenirs in the visitor’s center all shout our mantra.

The Dakotah Rose B&B

So, why not Minot? The reasons are, well, not many, but there are some interesting things to see and do. Enough that we were able to entertain ourselves for most of the 14 hours we had to spend with only our feet for transportation. Our first pleasant encounter was the bed and breakfast that Beth had located – the only B&B in Minot and very elegant. A large Victorian style home on the river, the Dakotah Rose Bed and Breakfast was a little too frou-frou for our tastes but still very pretty and quite comfortable. The owners were more reserved than our hosts in Whitefish and were busy with other guests and community events, so we didn’t feel quite so much at home. But, they did pick us up at the train and allow us to store our bags all day while we walked about Minot.

While at breakfast at the Dakotah Rose, we chatted with Michelle, who grew up in Minot and was back visiting from LA. We fueled her nostalgia with our questions about what to do so she insisted on giving us a tour of Minot. Always happy to get the insiders view, we allowed her to twist our arms. One hand on the wheel and the other as a pointer, she started with beautiful and active Oak Park where she had gone to Girl Scout camp. From there she cruised the main streets of downtown noting points of interest, including the best restaurant in town: 10 North Main. An artist friend of hers provides paintings to this restaurant in exchange for rent-free living in the loft above the restaurant. Now that’s local art!  She indicated the building where the town’s only department store and first escalator had been and directed us to a cookie shop, a quaint little book store and the store where she had purchased the most comfortable artsy t-shirt at 25% off! With a tinge of sadness, she described how the local hospital had purchased and developed many downtown properties, paving over the hill where she used to go sledding and other fond memories. 

Replica of Gol Stave Church

Visit with Visitor Center Troll

Our tour ended at the Scandinavian Heritage Park, arguably the most interesting place in Minot. This tribute to the ancestry of many North Dakotans gave us a glimpse into the icons of Scandinavian culture. The centerpiece of the Park is a full size replica of Norway’s Gol Stave Church. This is an intricately carved reminder of the strength of character and perseverance of the Norwegian immigrants to North Dakota. Never heated, the church also has no seats – only benches along the wall for the old and infirm – so congregants must stand shivering through the entire service. Some of the other interesting, but not so fascinating, features of the Park are the oldest home in North Dakota (built in 1771), a Dala horse (symbol of Sweden), and a stabbur or storehouse with a sod roof. Interestingly, inhabitants of both the visitor center and the oldest home are trolls. The troll at the visitor center welcomes you into a discussion; the other just prefers that you go away! His volunteer was quite friendly, however, and of unique ancestry… she’s Irish!

Beth with Hans Christian Anderson

Pub Troll

Pedestrian Bridge

The rest of Minot was downhill after the Scandinavian Heritage Park; literally – Heritage Park is on top of the south hill of Minot – and figuratively, though to a lesser degree. Mostly we walked. We walked to visit some of the stores, then we walked to Eastwood Park to do a walking tour of early 20^th century homes, then we walked to a pub for a beer (where we found another troll), then to “Cookies for You” for lunch, then more stores, then we walked across an 200 foot long pedestrian bridge over the railroad tracks and back to “Cookies for You” for coffee and a cookie. We visited the Railroad Museum of Minot – a free display of years and years of railroad memorabilia. Then we walked back to Oak Park to join the community of Minot on the first of their series of “Walk Minot” walking activities. To cap off the day we walked back to our B&B to pick up our luggage and walked to dinner at “10 North Main” (where Beth had elk for the first time) and walked to meet the train to Chicago, where Beth called her son Walker to wish him good night!

4 days left – can you believe it? What an incredible journey!

The Return Begins

Our last day in Seattle began, as had several others, with Al’s Famous Yeast Waffles topped with strawberries and whipped cream and complemented by humanely raised (though not humanely slaughtered) turkey bacon. After breakfast, all of us – Al, Judy, Lloyd, Alga, Banchong, Elijah, Liam, Beth and me (Elyssa and Matt had gone to pick up a crib for the new baby) – went for one last stroll along Alki Beach. Our little parade celebrated the warmth of family togetherness with Al pushing Lloyd in the lead followed by Judy holding Elijah’s hand (and sometimes Lloyd’s and Liam’s as well) and Alga corralling Liam to keep him from letting his curiosity lead him into the path of oncoming skateboards and bicycles. Banchong, Beth and I intermingled where needed or desired. It was lovely! Later we joined Elyssa and Matt for more food and hugs and kisses before Judy, Al and Lloyd took Beth and me to the train station. The memories of that send-off will make me smile for a long time!

It has been fun introducing Beth to train travel, roomette-style. She had traveled as a commoner on a train, but not in a sleeping car. The Empire Builder out of Seattle follows a route through Washington and Glacier National Park and along the northern borders of Idaho, Montana and North Dakota, before descending into Chicago. We had an upper level roomette for the first leg of our trip that was great for viewing the magnificent Cascade Mountains in Washington. I have already described sleeping car travel and it was much the same on this train. One difference is that we were greeted with chilled bottles of champagne, a definite plus!

Beth and I had decided to spice up our trip by spending a day in random towns along the route, including Whitefish, MT; Minot, ND; Chicago and DC – the first two were chosen simply because the train arrival and departure times were at reasonable hours! Beth arranged for B&Bs in both towns and so far we’re 1 for 1 (Minot is still tbd)!

Our Whitefish B&B

Beth in front of our room

The Good Medicine Lodge in Whitefish is about 5 blocks from the train station, but its owners, Woody and Betsy Cox, insisted on picking us up at the train when we arrived at 7:30 am and bringing us back for a hot breakfast. This was just the first example of their hospitality. After loading us into his car, Woody took us on a tour of Whitefish (which took less than 10 minutes), pointing out shops to visit and restaurants to consider, including one called “Pescado Blanco” for some reason. On arrival at the lodge we were treated to a delicious baked artichoke and salsa omelet, baked pears, and a breakfast bar of cereals, juices, breads, coffee, and so much more. Betsy, a published cook, had chosen the omelet because Beth had told her I was vegetarian and made Beth’s pear without nuts because Beth is allergic to nuts. So we ate with humble appreciation; true enjoyment; and as much gusto as we could muster having eaten a full breakfast on the train not more than 90 minutes earlier. The rest of the day we spent walking around town, resting and walking some more in the hopes of making room for the cocktails and hors d’oeuvres they prepared just for us that evening! On our second trip into town we did find the time and the room in our stomachs to sample all of the beers at the local brewpub, hard as that was.

Whitefish, MT

Whitefish is a small, western-style, tourist-dependent town, whose tourist season has not quite started. Our visit was also on Sunday, making for a quiet, relaxing 24 hours. The walk to town was on a bike trail that skirted along the beautiful Whitefish Lake and river and ended up in the shopping district. A town of only 8000 people, the shopping district was only about three blocks, but the shops were local and interesting, even if way over-priced ($65 ceramic mugs, for instance). The Great Northern Brewing Company was definitely the highlight!

Walking along Whitefish Lake

This morning, we got back on the Empire Builder – this time as commoners since we wouldn’t be spending the night. The Viewliner Lounge was still available, we just had to pay for food and missed out on the wine and cheese social offered to the sleeping car passengers! Thanks to the train, we saw more of Glacier National Park than we could have from a car since snow blocked most of the roads and trails – at least from the west side. We climbed almost as high as the tree line and were privy to the steep peaks and deep valleys of the park. More proof that Teddy Roosevelt did the right thing way back when. Just gorgeous.

Glacier National Park from Train

The rest of Montana was mostly flat farmlands dotted with cows, horses, ranches, and windmills. Pretty but also pretty monotonous. Next stop: the magic city of Minot (pronounced my’-not), North Dakota.

Seattle

Relaxing after a bike ride along Alki Beach

Fremont Troll

Tea at the Panama Hotel

One of the great things about living in the Seattle area is access to mountains for snow sports, the ocean or sound for water sports and the city for cultural events and great food!  This week we have snow-shoed on Mount Rainier, bicycled along Alki Beach, visited a troll under a bridge and hunted for salmon swimming upstream (without success, I might add). One rainy (it is Seattle, after all) afternoon, we enjoyed tea at the Panama Hotel in the International District. This hotel is where Japanese Americans stored their memories when evacuated to internment camps during WWII and became special to me after reading Jamie Ford's first novel, "Hotel on the Corner of Bitter and Sweet".

Banchong at Seattle Fashion Week

More fun than I ever imagined was my visit to the first night of Seattle Fashion Week at the invitation of Banchong, Alga’s wife. For one evening I was Banchong’s new “writer” learning the insider’s view of the world of fashion. I spoke with models, designers and producers and watched each contribute their part to a fabulous show. I learned the technique for walking a runway, the fact that at least some of the models eat whatever they want, and the amazing amount of family involvement and support provided. In the midst of it all was Banchong, networking, trading business cards, hugging necks, and totally melding with this fascinating world. Despite my, um, “silver” hair and Wal-Mart clothes, I was welcomed, if only as a curiosity, to this foreign world and I loved it!

Snow shoeing on Mt. Rainier

Without a doubt, the best part of my visit to Seattle, as for my visit with Ken’s family, has been the chance to reconnect with my sister and her amazing family. Judy and Al live in the Admiral District of West Seattle, a quaint and comfortable neighborhood of 1930s-era cottages interspersed with condominiums and a variety of shops. The neighborhood is full of personality, each home unique and reflective of its owner’s taste in landscaping and ability to afford remodeling. The garden level condo where Judy and Al live is across the street from the public library and an upscale market, and is just up the hill from Alki Beach, a perfect place for jogging and bike riding. The picturesque and not-so-cheap homes on the rim of their neighborhood gaze across Puget Sound’s Elliott Bay at the Seattle skyline. Not too shabby!

Statue of Liberty on Alki Beach

Interesting tidbit: Alki Beach is where the first European settlers of the Seattle area landed in 1851. They were befriended by the tribe of Chief Seattle and named the area “New York-Alki” which means “New York by and by” in the hopes that the area would someday grow to the size and importance of New York City. However, after one uncomfortable winter, most of the settlers moved across Elliott Bay to the more protected shores of the current downtown area of Seattle. The end result: Alki Beach has a miniature Statue of Liberty to celebrate that history.

Judy and Al have not yet retired, though Judy will be eligible within a few years having worked as a magistrate clerk for the federal government for many years. Several months ago Al’s father, Lloyd, moved in with them and this has become Al’s full time job. Over the past 10 or so years, Lloyd’s mind has succumbed to the ravages of Alzheimer’s disease, so he really needs 24-7 care. It’s a challenging and not very rewarding job that Al performs with gentle tenderness and obvious compassion. Al’s efforts along with Judy’s loving support allow Lloyd to be surrounded by family even though he probably doesn’t know it, and the multi-generational experience is heartwarming, if not always fun.

The view from Alga and Banchong's apartment

Enviably, Judy and Al live within 15 minutes of each of their children and their families. Alga and Banchong have an apartment in the more upscale Capital Hill District of downtown Seattle, which suits their young professional lives. Between travels to various international destinations (most recently Brazil), Alga is an engineering consultant who works from home and Banchong is developing her brand as a clothing designer. Alga talks about wanting a “real job” with a more consistent paycheck - even though the pay and time off may be less. His specialized knowledge makes him a much sought after consultant, which, combined with his honesty and hard work ethic, have convinced his family that he won’t have much trouble doing just about anything that pleases him!

Alga and Banchong

When not doing interviews about her designs or attending fashion events, Banchong spends much of her time helping her family take care of her 21 year old brother with cerebral palsy. She also enjoys exploring the local culture, participating in activities such as harvesting honey and digging for geoduck clams, which are abundant in Puget Sound and, shall we say, unusual?

Geoduck clams

Interesting tidbit #2: Geoduck (pronounced “gooey-duck”) clams are the world’s largest burrowing clams. They average about 2 pounds, but can be much larger, and can live as long as 168 years. The siphon and mantle of these clams are too large to be withdrawn into the shell, which gives the clams their unusual and somewhat shocking appearance: they look like a well endowed male’s genitalia has been removed and snapped into a clam shell. Believe me, I saw them for myself at the Uwajimaya Asian Market. 

Lloyd, Matt and Elyssa

Elyssa and Matt's new home

Elyssa and Matt have recently purchased their first home in a more family-friendly – and affordable – neighborhood in West Seattle. In addition to being a father, Matt is a web designer who works with big names like Nintendo and Elyssa sinks her talents into managing the family and the home. They have two children and one on the way, so theirs is truly a three-ring circus (four, if you count the demands of home-ownership).  It is sometimes fun and sometimes wild, but is always interesting and full of hugs and kisses. Their oldest son, Elijah, developed an intractable and devastating seizure disorder when he was about a year old. They battled multiple daily seizures until, finally, enough of his brain was removed to keep him seizure free for over a year now. The seizures, brain surgeries and myriad of medications have left him (and them) with a lifetime of challenges, but it is so wonderful to see him learning and, for the most part, happy!

Liam

Elijah

On the other side of the spectrum, Elyssa and Matt have recently learned that Liam, their almost 5 year old son, is exceptionally bright and has been accepted to The Evergreen School, which was established in 1963 to “provide a nurturing environment for children with extraordinary minds.” Wonderful as this is, it means another stick with a plate on top for them to keep spinning. Elyssa says they’re hoping their next child is “just average!”

Judy’s family, in particular Al, Alga and Banchong, celebrate food regularly with wonderfully prepared meals. Seattle is similar to San Francisco in the quality and variety of foods that are within easy reach. Combine that with a love of cooking and you end up with crepes and eggs Benedict for breakfast and dinner meals of crab soufflé, cheese pouf’s, tahini chicken and other gourmet palate pleasers. This homemade food tour has been ever so much better than the food in San Francisco.

Though I hate to say good-bye, tomorrow I leave my west coast family behind and join my friend Beth for the train trip back to North Carolina. Hard to believe that 4 of my 5 weeks have almost passed!

Northern California

Dalen and Me in Yosemite

Another catch-up entry – what a whirlwind week we’ve had!

I’ve always heard that northern California was beautiful and now I know for sure. From the peaks of Yosemite to the sparkling views of the Golden Gate Bridge to the rocky cliffs surrounding the deep blue of the Pacific Ocean, it’s been travel-guide perfect! Judy, Al and their son, Alga, had arranged ahead for Chamber of Commerce weather, which we enjoyed every single day – WOW! Alga, who lived in San Francisco for a while, says the weather is always that perfect, but well, whatever.

Our California sampling started with a trip to the Volkswagen dealer in Merced. Al’s Passat had started acting funny on the way down from Sacramento and apparently needed $1100 worth of work! So, we transferred our luggage to a rental car (thank-you, Al) and continued on to enjoy Yosemite National Park and San Francisco before returning to Merced to regain the Passat.

Yosemite Valley was just as amazing as I’d imagined. The snowmelt and, apparently, some recent rain had the rivers full and the waterfalls gushing.  The valley floor was spring green and flowering, a tranquil beauty that was protected by the stark and stunning beauty of the giants all around it. We climbed the trail leading to the top of Yosemite Falls, from which we were gifted with precipitous long-range views at every switchback. Dalen and Alga actually sprinted to the top and back down; we more “mature” travelers took time to enjoy the views and only made it half-way before turning back to retrieve the cold beers waiting for us in the trunk of our rental car.

Our hostel

Next stop on the agenda was San Francisco where we stayed at the San Francisco City Center Hostel. Thirty bucks per person per night bought each of us a bed with clean linens, a clean towel, and a bagel breakfast. Our room had a bath and beds for 5, so we didn’t have to share the room with strangers. The hostel location was not pristine. In fact, the person who checked us in warned us to only turn left out of the hostel door, unless we were looking to score some crack. Thankfully, we had our trusty rental car and our own personal tour guide named Alga, both of which saved us from wandering into trouble. Responses to the hostel were mixed: Dalen thought it was overpriced, Alga thought it was nicer than 80% of the hostels he’s experienced, Judy felt too old to be staying there, and Al and I thought it very much worth repeating if we could keep strangers from sharing our space.

Judy on China Beach

San Francisco was everything I’d ever read or heard about and much more, thanks to the insider’s tour provided by Alga. As we drove into the Bay Area, Alga took us on a driving tour of the Piedmont neighborhood where he’d lived, including a stop at a wonderful market stocked with local, organic and sustainable foods and other necessities for the foodies of the San Francisco area. All of this within walking distance of his former apartment – do you detect a hint of envy?  Then we took our booty to the hills of Walnut Creek where we ate with a panoramic view of the Bay Bridge and San Francisco. Just wonderful! Tummies full, we drove around the north end of the Bay to take the Golden Gate Bridge into downtown San Francisco. Once again, Alga’s knowledge of the area took us to a viewpoint in Golden Gate National Recreation Area west of the bridge, a perfect place for taking postcard pictures of the bridge.

After settling into the hostel, Alga treated us to a walk in the Castro district, home of Harvey Milk and the nightlife for the LGBT crowd. Honestly, it was really nice to see people who might otherwise be ostracized enjoy themselves in a place where they can be completely comfortable and accepted. Some were more comfortable than others, though, and a tad more comfortable that my ability to be comfortable with their comfort J. The country girl in me was a bit taken aback by the large pro-wrestler types holding hands with each other, and the cute naked man in a stocking cap strolling along in front of us was an interesting surprise (“nice hat,” someone commented).

View from Cable Car

Alga on Greenwich Steps

On Sunday, Dalen worked out at a local climbing gym while we did the remaining super-touristy things like take a ride on a cable car, which is strictly for tourists, and a streetcar, which is still used for transportation by locals. Perhaps one of the highlights was our climb up Greenwich Steps to see Coit Tower. These steps are used by residents (and some tourists) to travel between houses and are absolutely lovely. They offer snapshot views of the Bay in the midst of flowering shrubs and tunnels of leafy tree branches. Residents along the steps use them to show off their gardening and artistic talents, which makes for a truly delightful journey.

After we picked up Dalen, we visited the Haight-Ashbury district, something I’ve always wanted to do since my days as a hippie wannabe. This may come as a surprise, but this one-time Mecca of the free-spirited, drug smoking, peace & love generation is now a commercialized parody of its former self. However, at the end of Haight Street is Golden Gate Park and here is where the Haight-Ashbury of my imagination now exists! A drum circle drew us to a meadow where people relaxed on blankets, swayed to the drum rhythms, sang, did handstands, etc. Whatever, wherever – including open consumption of weed and who knows what else!  Someone approached Al and asked if he wanted a “bud”. My initial thought? Why would he want a beer from a stranger?! I AM getting old!

Our food tour of San Francisco included being treated to a meal at Chez Panisse by Al and Judy. (Smug alert!! San Franciscans take their foodie-ness very seriously!) At Chez Panisse the menu describes which farms produced which foods and the wait staff can fill in the details, such as the date, time and state of Zen consciousness when harvested. Rumor has it that to be a chef in San Francisco, you must first do a tour at Chez Panisse, and each dish seems prepared as if an advertisement for its chef: unique combinations of foods with simple but delicious seasonings to bring it all together into an unforgettable meal. So, being me, I kept the menu to be sure I wouldn’t forget: Dalen had the Wolf Ranch quail roasted with butter and honey and I had the grilled Riverdog Farm asparagus with lemon preserved chick peas.

Another stop on our food tour was a pizzeria that Alga knew where we ordered delicious pizzettas with arugula and other unusual items. However, most of our meals were eaten out of the cooler of delicious cheeses, meats, olives, veggies, fruit and the obligatory baguette that Judy and Al brought and we replenished daily until arriving in Seattle.

The Northern California Coast

Crescent City Light House

The coast of Northern California is where we headed next.  Here I must apologize because I am running out of descriptors for the amazingly beautiful scenery in this part of the country. I am not that well traveled, but I have been to Greece and Costa Rica and Capri and the vistas in Northern California equal or exceed all of those places. It was also the trip you imagine when reading travel brochures: gorgeous sights, perfect weather and few other people. We followed Route 1 up the coast, traveling right along the shoreline and stopping whenever we felt the urge to hike or walk on the beach or take pictures or just enjoy the view without moving.

Our first night we called ahead to get reservations at a clean and reasonable place recommended by “Lonely Planet”: the Columbi Motel in Fort Bragg, It was indeed reasonable and clean, but reservations were not really needed since there did not appear to be any other guests. The owners of the motel, also own the Columbi Deli and Market and the Columbi Laundromat, which we were happy to use without worrying that we were being absorbed into “the Family.” For dinner we paid way too much for Fish & Chips at a local brewpub, but enjoyed sampling the beers they brew across the street.

Two other items on my list for northern California were to visit a winery and see the redwoods, both of which we checked off the next day. The Navarro vineyard was our choice for a winery because Al and Judy knew that their wine is good and reasonably priced. They were right! So, of course I had to purchase 5 bottles of wine because they had been so kind as to let me taste a dollar’s worth for free!

The Giant Redwoods

Seeing the redwood trees in a book does not come close describing what it feels like to stand at the feet of these giants. I took picture after picture trying to capture that Lilliputian feeling without success. They are majestic in the way they stand so straight and hundreds of feet tall. The tallest tree is said to be 436 feet tall and 44 feet in diameter at the base!

Snow Covered Bathrooms

We left California and crossed into Oregon, which holds it’s own in the beauty competition, but in a different, northwestern rugged way. The sunshine stayed in California, but the cloud covered skies and 12 feet of snow didn’t keep us from driving up to the rim of Crater Lake. The snow did keep us from doing much more than taking a quick picture of the lake and plan for the next visit to do some hiking around the lake. The metal tunnel through the snow to the heated bathroom was one of the more interesting sites on this visit!

Our last stop before Seattle was Portland, Oregon. Not a favorite of Al’s and Judy’s, we took a quick walk around, visited Powell’s amazing book store and headed north for greyer skies, rain, and the home of our west coast family.

The California Zephyr

(Sorry! This is a catch-up entry…)

On Tuesday, April 26, I hugged the Ken Thomases good-bye, rode the train from Joliet to Chicago and boarded the California Zephyr to California. We had lunch in Joliet while waiting for the train and I was struck by the gritty, deserted feeling of this county seat. Granted, the day was drizzly, but unlike thriving cities, there was no undercurrent of life, just a few people and the occasional bar/lounge. We had to drive for several blocks before finding a hole-in-the-wall pizza place for lunch. It must be busy at other times because the food was pretty good and the options were slim, but not today. The county jail and a beautiful old theatre that offers plays and music concerts appear to be the highlights of Joliet.

Our roomette (Dalen joined me in Green River, UT) on the California Zephyr was on the lower level, which offers a more limited view, but otherwise the experience on this train was similar to the Capitol Limited from DC to Chicago. Plus we discovered the viewing lounge on the top level of the café car that provides a more comfortable place to enjoy the trip, whether viewing or reading or chatting with other travelers. As to other travelers, we’ve met an interesting array over a shared meal in the dining car: a couple from New York who are on the first leg of their around the world trip to include Vietnam, Cairo and South Africa; a man from St. Louis on a solo journey to the northern California area; a man from Chicago on his way to pick up a 30 year old sports car he purchased on eBay; and a young IT tech from London who’s enjoying the extra holiday time given to all Brits for the Royal Wedding.  We also heard of some drama unfolding late Wednesday night when a battered woman rushed into the lounge car and the other passengers stood between her and her abusive husband. Apparently, eight Salt Lake City policemen subsequently removed her husband from the train.

Between Chicago and Denver, the limited view from our roomette didn’t really matter. The plains of Iowa and Nebraska look pretty much the same: miles and miles of open spaces dotted with the occasional farmhouse, corn silo, and cattle feedlot. Some of the corn silos were gi-normous! They and the feedlots were sober reminders of the food atrocities described in Michael Pollan’s Omnivore’s Dilemma. That said, since most of the views prior to Denver were so redundant I picked up my book and while reading I totally missed the Mississippi River – dang! As we approached Denver, the peaks of the Rocky Mountains were visible in the distance and the views – on all levels – began to improve.

The Colorado Rockies

Winding along the river

Crossing the Colorado Rockies by train is like hiking up a scenic trail on a tall mountain with amazing views – without having to, well, hike!  After leaving Denver, the trip starts out with gentle pastoral views and meandering streams that seem to have been directed to bring water to every ranch along the way. Then hills begin to form and the climb gets steeper and colder and more starkly beautiful. Towering rock cliffs covered with spruce trees and snow close in on rushing rivers and then open to acres of farmlands protected by the snow-capped mountains. Then the cliffs close in again and the descent begins. The snow gradually disappears along with the spruce trees and the hills get smaller and it’s obviously spring again.

Dalen in the Viewliner

As I mentioned, Dalen joined me on the train in Green River, much to the consternation of the conductor, who had trouble grasping that someone whose ticket was from Chicago would be getting on the train a day later. Since we were in a sleeping car, this meant the train had to do a “double stop” at the very small station in Green River – once to pick up the coach class riders and once again to let Dalen board the sleeping car.  Thankfully, with the support of Steve, our car attendant, the conductor finally agreed he could do that for someone who was not on his list!  Dalen’s unorthodox arrival brought us a bit of celebrity among the staff, who now recognized us and remembered our names and destination, especially Steve.

Dalen’s presence in the roomette gave me the opportunity to sleep on the upper berth. This berth, when lowered for sleeping, is about 5½ feet from the floor, 6 or 7 feet long, no more than 30 inches wide and about 20 inches from the ceiling of the roomette. There are two 8 to 10 inch wide carpeted steps built into the wall of the roomette that double as an end table for the lower berth and offer a lift to within 3 feet of the berth. Since I am a relatively small American with a decent amount of agility for my age, I accomplished the task without too much trouble. However, I am impressed that people who are older and much larger than I are able to accomplish the same task – and choose to do so!

Western view of Sierra Nevada Mountains

Thursday morning we traveled the second beautiful part of the route, which carried us through the Sierra Nevada Mountains past Tahoe. The sun was bright and the snow-covered mountains were breath taking. An added treat to this segment was a guided tour done by volunteers of the California State Railroad Museum. Not only did they describe the sights along the way, we got a taste the history of the route that included interesting tidbits like the name “Zephyr” was chosen to make that line of trains the “last word” in train travel! This was also the track where the golden spike was driven completing the first transcontinental railway. Pretty darn cool!

We got to Sacramento on time and checked in with my sister, Judy, as to where she and her “was-band” Al were in their trip down from Seattle. Unexpectedly, they were about 30 minutes from Sacramento, so they swung by and picked us up, saving us from having to wait until 4:55 for the train to Merced, CA, and giving us that much more time to spend with them. Good-bye to train travel for a couple of weeks!

Easter Weekend with the Chicago Thomases

Since leaving downtown Chicago last Thursday, I’ve been staying with my brother, Ken, and his family in their beautiful home in Plainfield, IL. He and his wife, Jean, have created a comfortable, welcoming oasis in their corner of Suburbia and I’ve enjoyed this opportunity to reconnect with my youngest brother and his family! It’s been a real treat to share briefly in their busy and interesting lives and hearing a bit of their hopes and dreams. We’ve played cards, gone for walks, visited the surrounding area, died Easter eggs, danced to the Wii and eaten wonderful meals! It’s been a perfect break from life on the road!

Meet my brother and his family:

Kaylyn, Candice, Elizabeth, Sean, Jean, Ken, Ryan

Ken is working out of the home now as a Field Operations Manager for Integration Partners, a data and voice network company. He is good at what he does – having grown his staff 3-fold in the 8 months that he’s been working for them – and seems to enjoy it.  That makes 3 of 4 of my siblings that work out of the home. Hmm, it must be because we are responsible and reliable, right?! Ken is the go to guy in this house for fixing computers, remodeling bathrooms, moving doors and generally fixing what needs to be fixed. But, he's about to embark on a pursuit of his personal passion for flying: he's going to build his own plane!

Jean's Gingerbread Shoppe

Jean is a talented crafts maker with a skilled eye for display. Their guest room is a great example of that – I’m sleeping in a room of Easter bunnies and bears and cute signs and great scents! She and Ken are taking advantage of her vision and skills. They have leased a storefront on the main street of Plainfield in the artsy downtown area of their community where Jean plans to sell her own crafts along with creations from artisans around the world. Their plans seem to have considered every variable and the potential for success is very exciting!

Kaylyn in her Versa

Ken and Jean have three bright, friendly, and welcoming daughters. Kaylyn, their youngest and a high school junior, is the only child left in the nest. She has a ready smile and is always ready to join in the fun (except for dying Easter eggs after a long day at work – go figure). She misses her sisters, but is busy with work and school and the Color Guard for her high school band. Next week she sits for the ACTs and is starting to look ahead to studying music education or music therapy at a college someplace WARM (we hope she chooses ECU)! Kaylyn is the proud owner of a new-to-her Nissan Versa and is an excellent driver – which I can say from experience!

Candice, their oldest daughter, is a sophomore at Lewis University in the romantically named town of Romeoville, where she is studying Criminal Justice and Forensic Science.  Candice is warm and laughs easily, bantering teasingly with Ken and her mom like good friends. She has a boyfriend, Ryan, who is an EMT and they seem to really have fun together. Candice is between jobs at this point, which allows her to focus on her studies and – lucky for me – spend more time with her family!

The Exelon Nuclear Garden

Elizabeth, their middle daughter, is at Joliet Junior College and hopes to go to the University of Illinois at Chicago to finish her degree in Elementary Education. She is bright and grasps irony quickly. While walking past a garden sponsored by Exelon Nuclear, she spotted the irony in all of the dead grass around the sign – a subtle but powerful point the rest of us had missed! Her boyfriend, Sean, is also hoping to teach but is looking to teach math at the high school or college level. She is working the graveyard shift and providing childcare for a curious 3 year old, all the while finding time to study – and to visit with her grateful aunt!